Remembering how to say I love you in Montmartre

On Saturday, we headed to Montmartre, with Mary-Ellen the same nice woman who had taken us on the Chocolate tour on Wednesday. She was very kind to actually plan a little respite in a playground especially for the kids in the middle of our tour as well as bringing some biscuits with chocolate as a treat for them. Very thoughtful--
As soon as I walked along the stony paths-through cafes, art galleries and lovely patisseries, I felt at home. This was a place where part of the Bohemian Paris was born- a place where Toulouse Lautrec immortalized the ladies of the cabarets and where writers, singers and artists alike spent their time creating future historical spots all through the neighborhood (Van Gogh and his brother Theo, Salvatore Dali, the Egyptian Italian singer Dalida who led a famous life but ended tragically etc.) This was also the place of the lovely film Amelie--could I say more?

Of course, to top it off, our 1st site was the wall of love, a wall that had I love you written in hundreds of languages-- a welcome sign that I think is perfect! (thats the picture above!)

Upon walking through these corridors, both Pieter and I knew that of the places in Paris, this had a sense of home-calm-and spirit that we hadn’t felt as much of in any other part. Much of Paris is so stunning-light everywhere, pretty homes, gorgeous views from almost every angle, and yet the sense of home and warmth is not always present. This was a place that we could come again to- and maybe next time spend some more nights just being in the lovely part of Paris…

Following Montmartre and a salad for lunch (I tried and savor many goat cheese salads while here), we headed over to Bon Marche, the oldest department store in Paris while Carla headed on out on her own for the day back to the Salvatore Dali museum and Notre Dame.

By this time the kids were really tired and truly needed a break. So upon arriving at Bon Marche, we searched for a respite. Under a beautiful Moroccan style tent, we sipped tea and chilled for an hour, while the kids sat across from us watching Mulan on Pieter’s iPHONE (the best creation yet). That was relaxing, and probably one of the other nicest moments in Paris.

We didn’t have time to browse or shop- but for this trip, that’s okay. This was discovery for the kids’ time…and the discovery of this town was almost to an end. All that was left was 1 more day ahead, and this time, we would finally get to the Eiffel Tower.

D’Orsay and Pompidou

Rather than heading to VERSAILLES due to impending rain (only a few drops came actually), we changed our tour to Musee D'orsay. Luckily, our special "context travel" tour guide Robyn knew tons of information about this place. She had studied art history, Dutch and was from the US. She was perfect, friendly, warm and really knowledgeable about the sculptures-paintings and even the building itself. It was really a joy...we had some fun notes to compare while she had mentioned she had a Dutch boyfriend once--

The highlights of the visit of the museum had to be seeing the Degas Ballet Dancer sculpture, which Bella had read about for the past 2 years in a lovely book about Degas and a story how he sculpted the ballerina-and as a special gift, she gave him the ribbon she wore. Well, the ribbon was on site, as well as many other paintings from Van Gogh, Monet, and more. I know that art can be simplistic as viewing pretty pictures but when you hear about the "why" a painting was painted, or how someone broke the 'mold' of the academics and pushed the artistic envelope- that's what is inspiring.

Alec was mostly bored during this museum visit, but Pieter and I decided that it was just fine for Alec and Bella to get bored too. Part of this trip was learning how much of Paris that we loved, could be loved by a 5 and 8 year old. The other part was learning how to deal with the comments like "I'm tired" "I'm bored" "When will we be home?" or "Can I have ice cream again?" as well as the great ones like "this is the best day of my life" or "WOWWWWWW, look at that!" and "This is the best crepe!" or "I can't wait to see our tour guide again!"

Anyway, in order to switch it up a bit, we did try to mix the cultural visits with a playground, running around activity to get them into their active happy mode too. But this day, we figured we could try to skip it and head maybe to a 2nd museum that night. We kind of learned our lesson. After crepes and a little rest, we headed towards George Pompidou, the cool museum with the escalators that go really high. At least to our kids, that was the highlight. We were hoping that since there was a Calder exhibit who specialized in performance art and creating circus animals, that the viewing would be fun for all of us.

Well, the circus was kind of cool- when you enter his exhibit, there was a 60 minute film on the artist which was a kind of documentary of Calder performing his ART. He created circus acts made of wire, cloth, springs and leather each of them performing tricks. We saw Calder himself display a wire lion jump through a hoop-a trapeze wire act—a dog riding a bike and so on. It was clear that his art combined science, math, engineering, physics and pure ingenuity. The kids were riveted, at least I thought. How did I know that at the end of the viewing of the actual wire circus acts shown in the film- they would ask for the “Real Circus” and then comment on how boring it was??

It was maybe boring to them at the time- but when you glanced at their faces when they spotted the exact wire circus pieces that they had just seen in the documentary on display--they were wowed. They are learning hundreds of things and watching new images through out every day- tasting the Paris they never knew existed. I never realized they would endure walking everyday for 5 hours without complaining- how to eat and drink not upon convenience but whenever we can- and that different art, parks and places exists and can be appreciated.

It just has not all sink in just yet...

Investigating art and a way to see the Tour Eiffel

We started today with a tour of the Louvre- called Muse Clues, a tour specifically geared for Alec and Bella (okay kids in general) Anyway, our tour guide Inga, a former New Yorker who has found her more French side guided Alec and bella through their 1st Art Detective investigation.

It was a nice tour where Bella and Alec were tasked to solve 11 clues through answering questions in and around the museum. Each clue was set among different periods of history including French Medieval period, Italian Renaissance, and Mesopatamia. And, along the way they learned nuggets of art history that they will likely always remember...how and why Venus di Melo is so popular (her movement is captured in marble like no one else could do)- why De Vinci's Mona Lisa was so special (a shift in portraits from only profiles to front view--and that she follows you wherever she is and finally-that she is smiling, apparently a rare change in portraits until De vinci dared to be different) and viewing the stones of the initial foundation of the Louvre when it was a fortress in a moat built 800 years ago (that was cool for such obvious reasons). At the end, because they both were full "art detectives" that broke the code, they happily received their treasure- but only after having to request it in Francais.

After a quick recuperation at the apartment, we headed to the Eiffel Tower to view the Parisian skyline in all its beauty-- Alec screamed at delight at the possibility and Bella hopped skipped and jumped over to the Bateau-Bus boat which would be the beginning of our journey there.

Upon arriving at the Tour Eiffel, we found lines around and around and around and around and around and around loops which seemed to never end. Watching this long snake of a cue was an obvious issue for all of us, how long can we wait on this thing? Well- can you guess what we did?

We walked around it, viewed some expert soccer kids twist and move the soccer ball in ways I never knew possible-- like the parisian soccertrotters or something, anyway, that was cool. Then, we bought some souveniers at the trinket shop and then bought an ice cream.

By this time, we realized the reality of the "what do we do now" question was fully understood. We would NO WAY wait and was now looking for a way out. But Alec, poor Alec had his heart of hearts set on this journey, and asked about every possible way, every doorway (exit doors looked empty to him) and wondered whether Mommy could make a phone call and we could get in... What a resourceful and smart but not very correct son I have. Anyway, just as he began to cry, and cry and get quite upset, my daughter Isabella spotted a dual horse carriage about to depart from the Park. She told me and actually reminded me that 2 years ago (she keeps count) I promised her in Princeton NJ that we would take a carraige ride next time... but the next time never came around as it was a Winter buggy and a short season. Anyway, we all looked at each other and decided a horse buggy ride would do nicely, and Alec actually stopped tearing and got excited.

We took the ride through the 7th Arrodisement, waving at the onlookers and trying to figure a new way to see the Eiffel Tower without the long lines. Well, we enjoyed the ride, and Alec asked at least 7 different times, in 3 different ways, whether and when we could go--I had to be honest, I said I don't really know...

Speed ahead to dinner at the apartment (Pieter and I got Indonesian take out-- it was very good) and we are browsing away on the Internet seeing if there are other ways to get into this steel wire tourist trap without having the trappings of hell long waiting lines.

Found something!!! It just so happens that on Pieter's upcoming birthday, on Sunday July 19th, the restaurant on the 1st level (58 Tour Eiffel) 58 meters above ground, had an open dinner reservation at 6:30 PM for 5. It actually allows us to have a decent dinner (not too expensive, and there is a kid's menu) with ADMISSION to the 1st level of the Eiffel tower included....

So, plans have been made, we will be there, and finally our kids will view the view!!!!

Chocolate and more chocolate

Day 2: A chocolate tour
This morning we took a tour through 5 decadent chocolate patisseries in Paris--some of the most amazing tastes i have ever savored. Who ever knew that single origin chocolate from Indonesia is velvety smooth, rich and melts like nothing before. What about lychee chocolate--or 3 honey chocolate--and of course praline (roasted almonds-hazelnuts and chocolate...)MMMMMMMMM. The kids enjoyed the scenery, watching a chocolate fountain, viewing shiny chocolates that have gold sprinkling- and the prettiest designs and shapes (hearts, a high heeled shoe, tour eiffel etc.)

All the places were presented to us from a lovely tour guide that is from Minnesota who has lived in France for 17 years; her insight and history of the chocolate itself was kind of riveting for me (never knew real chocolate was made by hand...machines can only dilute the stuff but not really remove it from the cacao beans) Anyway, the kids kind of lost interest at this point, but it was great to hear about how much work goes into the chocolate itself (What a God given treat...) However, at the same time, it is ironic how far away the typical market brands are from the original. I do somewhat see a movement towards a more sophisticated palate in the direction of the pure chocolate I tasted (a la Whole Foods, organic, etc), but i am not sure Halloween candy will ever match the good stuff.

Dinner notes
So tonight we were able to have our Mom in law babysit the kids while Pieter and I stepped out into Quartier Latin for some dinner. I tried to research a restaurant that had some international flavor but was not crazy in price. Mind you, this was difficult since many of the top reviewed places have a sort of gastronomy type menus...(how does 400 Euros sound per person????) So instead, we went to Ze Kitchen Galerie..an art gallery/southeast Asian inspired french cuisine close by to where we are staying. Let me 1st say, next time I think I should take the hint, that when you enter a crowded restaurant with lovely people--receive menus that do not have any familiar dishes, and get unlimited olives which Pieter and I do NOT enjoy--we should leave. I tasted a few good things at the restaurant, but honestly? It was not really southeast Asian influenced, except for a piece of coriander and lemon grass on the plate I was eating from. Not really cool, and frankly we would have rather gone to the near by creperie or bistro for a burger. But have you ever sat in a crowded place and been served immediately and then just walked out?? Well, next time we find that situation, we just might.

Anyway, after our -not outstanding but oh well-dinner, we walked around and talked about all the places that we have been (St Petersburg, Finland, UK, Holland, Colorado, NY etc) and realized that the entire world is filled with so many views, pleasures and beauty- but the most important thing is your sense of how much you (in the sense of the spirit) feels at home.

Until the next adventure!

Journal of Paris vacation: 1

I am finally on holiday!! Two weeks of Europe with the family; with the 1st week in Paris. The next couple of posts will be a journal of our trip...vive la France!

Day 1: Walking through the scenes of Paris

La Duree Breakfast on Quartorze Juillet...
Who knew that on the morning we had breakfast reservations at the famous La Duree on the Champs Elysee--we would be unable to savor the lovely desserts since the entire Champs Elysee was crowded and full of parade watchers for the Quartorze Juillet Parade... So we bought some crosissants, yogurt and pain chocolat at a nearby bakery and ate on the street while watching the military planes ahead fly by...what an experience. I heard later that there were about 1 Million people watching with us.

Tour Eiffel
Following our breakfast, we decided to check out the Tour Eiffel at the Trocadero. Although a great view, the vendors are everywhere selling tour eiffel trinkets by the dozen (1 euro for 3 towers etc.) I didnt mind this until someone placed 3 mini eiffel towers in Alec's little hand. Bad sales behavior in my book. No sale. Anyway, we moved on to get some drinks and rest our tired feet (we already walked at least 2 hours already the 1st morning.) We then took a Bateau Bus which is a tour bus on the water where you can hop on and hop off at various attractions along the Seine. It was nice, but kids can only take about the 1st 10 minutes, at the 40th it was more like (are we there yet????) We hopped off and walked the rest of the way to our hotel.

Dinner was at the Creperie and was very nice (tasted not as good as Pieter's pancakes but very tasty and nice atmosphere, and the best part it is 90 seconds away from our hotel) We savored the crepes avec sucre, et framboise... yum.

Jardin du Luxembourg
After dinner, we went through the Metro to a well reviewed park in one of the many 'kid-guide' books I bought on Paris. So this garden supposedly has a great playground and perfect spot for kids. Upon getting to the garden, after trekking through the ponds, forest and paths, we found an enclosed playground hideaway.

It was lovely, full of slides, rides, rope climbing and cool stuff, but but NOOOO!!! It was closed! It was only 8:45 PM so it was not dark, but apparently at 7 PM, this little play haven is locked up. (there is also a 3Euro charge to get in for adults and kids so they officially lock it up with gates.

Ah, tant pis. But heaven awaits, since on the way out of the park, we bumped into Amore one of the best gelato places in Paris, where their scoops are designed in a shape of a flower, so yummy and so pretty at the same time (a metaphor for the city i think). Anyway, we were happily digesting our cornets (cone in francais) when we stopped for tea before the big firework display.

Tea at Cafe Dauphine.
To prep for our firework viewing (at 11 PM at night) we decided to pass some time drinking tea and juices at Cafe Dauphine (never mind the 6.50 a cup for tea) This was a better place than we thought since we were able to wind down, drink tea, and prep the kids for a little wait before we actually see the big splash in the sky. (Mommy note: I bumped into a nice American in the bathroom who was also breast-pumping at the same time. I had to empathize with her, since that was me only 5 years ago. and how I can recall the days of inconvenient but worthwhile sacrifices we continue to go through for our kids.)

Fireworks!!!
Wow, we got a seat on the bridge next to the Place de la Concorde and sat among Japoneese, German, Dutch, French and more, all waiting for the celebration to begin. It took about 35 minutes before we saw the lights in the sky... The Tour Eiffel was basking in the light and we enjoyed every boom, splash, and glitter across the horizon. Alec got the best view on top of Pieter's shoulders and Bella and I tried to get a view through the street between the people. We decided about 20 minutes into the celebration to walk to the Metro to go home. The kids were absolutely tired. The coolest thing? While we walking, since the fireworks were just about getting done, but not yet completely finished, everyone, the cars, the people, the streets were FROZEN watching it all. While we walked back it was surreal, the Ruiters walking through Paris frozen in time on Bastille Day. A perfect way to end our 1st day...